Suseman last stop to the RoB

Up bright and breezy this freezing cold morning built up the fire for a warm up and breakfast before setting off for Suseman which is the last fuel stop before the road of bones and Tomtor.

1st Campsite

28th July and we have a thick frost in the morning!

About an hour into the ride my exhaust decided to set light to the indicator which burned through a strap causing the rear roll bag to drop onto the wheel! this caused it to lock up skidding the bike along at 50+mph on gravel is not much fun…

It’s a know issue with the 690 and should have altered the indicator location but didn’t bother, you live and learn!

Kit Destroyed

One destroyed exped, sleeping bag, tent(almost), rollbag, silk liner, and inflatable pillow = uncomfortable nights!

Burnt Indicator

Who needs sleeping equipment and indicators anyway!

Once the remaining usable kit was repacked we headed off to Suseman for our final fuel stop before Tomtor. This is the last inhabited place for several hundred km’s until you reach Tomtor so stocking up on as much fuel as you can carry is imperative just in case!



Suseman is very much a dead end town and getting there from the end of the Tenkinskaya Track meant going 40km in the wrong direction down the dustiest road we have ever ridden. The M56 is a compacted dirt rocky road and trying to pass the lorries that are throwing up the dust is seriously dangerous, you really cannot see a thing so your hitting rocks and gravel ridges with no warning as you overtake.

Suseman Kids

There is a cafe in Suseman where we had hoped to get something to eat but unfortunately it was closed so headed straight back out after stopping for fuel. Next stop Kadychan which is a deserted city that once housed 10000 plus people, the story goes that one day during the winter the heating broke so they all upped and left!


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