Woke this morning after 10 hours sleep and still feel knackered, the old summer road is a fantastic track but tiring or maybe we are trying to do too much each day. I think the incident with the mad hic in the hunters lodge took it out of us a bit as we ended up riding late into the night even though we were already worn out!
Tomtor is a little town in the absolute middle of nowhere but has a nice feeling about it and Tatyana’s hospitality is second to none. Her husband went off and made Kev a replacement lug for one of his panniers as it fell off somewhere along the road. After we fixed Kev’s bike we rode to be pole of cold monument on the main road near the Tomtor sign leading to the centre. The actual place with the coldest inhabited recorded temperature of -71.2c is slightly south called Oymyakon.
There is a small museum in the centre which we visited, the curator did her best to show us bits from the gulags and information about the local people who by all accounts live to a ripe old age. One man lived to 125 years and had a son when he was 70 (I suppose there is not much to do in the winter months)!
We left around midday and started off on the second half of the road of bones, the sun was out it was warm and the road from Tomtor out is still well maintained unlike the bridges so plenty of river crossings ahead.
After about 3 hours of riding and we got to the end of the old summer road, during the ride we saw a bear on the road but as Kev rode towards it the noise from his exhaust scared it off into the forest. We crossed the Kyubyume river and refuelled at the station just north of the exit to the M56.
Next stop Kandyga another 270km along the M56 Kolyma highway, the whole way along the M56 were road works with gravel traps and boulders. With the dust from the lorries this was much tougher then the old summer road! you could not see a thing when you come up to a lorry but you had to overtake otherwise you sat in the dust cloud at 30mph. It was a risky and unpleasant ride then the last 50 km or so we had the smoke from the forest fires to contend with as well!
Kandyga was a dusty smokey rundown town and we looked for a place to stay from one of Walter’s waypoints and pulled up outside a block of flats with 2 people standing smoking by the front door. We stopped and I spoke to them in my best/worse Russian and it turned out that it was the B&B. Although it didn’t look good from the outside the inside was great Oxana and Roman her husband were very nice and looked after us well. We had a plan that at 11 o’clock we could put our bikes in the container for safety but by 10 o’clock we were both fast asleep so Roman blocked the bikes in where they were with his car! Good man Roman!
Distance travelled 483kms Max Altitude 1470mtrs
Total Distance travelled 1456kms